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Install the new glazing in the collector with the smooth side facing outward.  Make
sure the gasket is on evenly and completely. Move the glazing to center it in the
collector frame. Make sure it fits without binding.
If silicone or other sealant was originally used to seal the collector, apply it. Install
the glazing cap strips. Tighten them down enough to slightly compress the gasket,
but not tight enough to distort the strips or pinch the glazing.
If the connections between frame components are sound, use silicone sealant to
weatherproof them. If joints are loose and can be tightened, apply silicone to the
surfaces before tightening the collector up.
If necessary, use angle braces and self-tapping screws to hold corners together.
Although this is not a very attractive method, it is effective. Cover the screw heads
and the brace/collector junction with silicone sealant.
Use stainless steel, cadmium-plated or aluminum hardware for repairing aluminum
frames. Do not use galvanized hardware. Contact with zinc will corrode aluminum
within one year.
Seals and Gaskets
If the glazing gasket is leaking, but the glazing is not broken, apply silicone sealant
to suspicious spots. Make sure the collector surfaces are clean and dry.
Leaks around the absorber headers can be repaired the same way. Make sure the
headers are not too warm: the silicone tube will list the highest application
temperature.  Use materials compatible with 400F temperatures. Replace the
piping insulation.
Interior Insulation
Insulation inside the collector is usually replaced because it is wet. If the amount of
moisture is not too great, so the insulation is not soaking wet, the simplest thing to
do is to drill three or four 3/16" weep holes in the bottom edge of the collector
between the glazing and the absorber. (Figure 5-3)


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