Custom Search
|
|
|
||
 WARNING!
Welding or repairing epoxy or resin linings will rapidly
contaminate the air inside a tank to potentially deadly levels. These
operations should only be done by experts, both to ensure the lining
will not leak and for safety reasons.
Drain Valves
Many small tanks, of 120 gallon capacity or smaller, were originally manufactured
with plastic drain valves. If one of these leaks, replace it with a brass tank drain
valve.
If this is not available, use a boiler drain. It may be necessary to solder together a
male adapter, a two inch section of tubing and a female adapter to make an
"extension" for the boiler drain.
Leaking valves on larger tanks can be replaced with identical components. Make
sure you can reach the new valve conveniently, and insulate it.
Anodes
The thread sealant used by the manufacturer on storage tanks may make anode
removal difficult, but the anode is made to be removed. Use teflon tape on the
replacement, to make future inspections and replacements easier.
In some areas, a chemical reaction takes place between contaminants in the water
and the anode rod to produce a "rotten egg" smell. Traditionally, the solution is to
remove the anode from the tank.
This will result in a much shorter tank life. Install an anode made of a different
material, usually aluminum. Sometimes, this will solve the problem without
shortening tank life.
If the distance between the tank top and the ceiling prohibits installing a straight
anode rod, use a sectioned rod. This looks like links of sausage, and eliminates
having to disconnect the tank.
REPAIR
5.2 REPAIR PROCEDURES
191
|
 
|
|
|
||
